While most Vietnamese food is, by most standards, relatively expensive you will find that the food in Hoi An is not only delectable but incredibly affordable as well. While most restaurants in Hoi An prepare traditional Vietnamese fare, the city is well known for three culinary specialties. They are cao lau (a special recipe rice noodle topped with pork, vegetables, and seasonings), white rose (a shrimp dumpling dish), and wantan dumplings (similar to Chinese style dumplings but either deep fried or served in a soup).

Adventurous diners will want to start their culinary exploration of Hoi An with a visit to the Central Market. Here you’ll have the chance to have breakfast or a snack prepared fresh by local shopkeepers in an informal environment. Tread cautiously through the market. Shopkeepers will do their best to offer you plates of food, sometimes going as far as to force the plate in front of you, and you’ll have to politely decline everything you don’t want to try. You’ll also want to confirm the price of everything you try before you buy it to ensure you aren’t ripped off by shopkeepers attempting to take advantage of tourists. Make sure you always carry local currency because if you hand a shopkeeper anything else (especially USD) you probably won’t get your change.

There are dozens of incredible Hoi An restaurants ranging from budget pricing to mid-range to special occasion. If you’re looking to enjoy reasonably priced authentic food you’ll want to start with a trip to White Rose, known for serving and making most of the “white rose” shrimp dumplings served in restaurants throughout the city. The Cafe des Amis is a mid-range restaurant serving foods that blend Vietnamese and French flavors in creative dishes. Here you’ll end up choosing what meat you want as the base for your dish and the rest will be left up to the creativity of the chef.

Those looking for entertainment in Hoi An should plan their trips around one of the city’s annual (or monthly) festivals. The festivals are your best opportunity for seeking out music, culture, and entertainment.

The museums and tourist attractions should keep you busy during the day and those of you looking for a bit of party-atmosphere excitement will certainly enjoy the nightlife. The city is full of hot nightclubs, bars, and pubs serving chilling cocktails while playing music from a wide variety of genres.

If you’re dying for something really exciting you should check out the Hoi An Motorbike Adventures. You entire tour of Hoi An and the surrounding areas will be conducted by motor bike. After your tour guide gives you a biking tutorial and helps you to choose the trip you really want to go on (half day and full day trips are available) you’ll be well on your way with the wind blowing in your hair!

Restaurants, bars

AN NAM
1 Cua Dai road, Hoian
Tel: 927 040
Located at Victoria Hoian Resort. Excellent food and good value fro money. Vietnamese delicacies and good service.

BROTHER CAFÉ.
27 Phan Boi Chau, Hoian
Tel: 914150
Daily buffet lunch and dinner in the courtyard of an old house.
Very recommendable.

SONG DO
Hoian Riverside Resort, Cua Dai road
Very nice restaurant offers the superb view of Hoian river and green field. Good Vietnamese and International cuisine. Price is a bit expensive but worth.

HOI AN HAI SAN
Address: 64 Bach Dang St, Hoi An
Tel: 05100-861-652
Cuisine: Asian/Pac Rim
Hai-san means “seafood” in Vietnamese and “hello” in Swedish. The owners, longtime Swedish expat Calle and Hoa, his Vietnamese wife, offer just that: “Hello, seafood!” This is one of the few spots on Hang Bac that doesn’t need to try to drag you in because it’s the food that brings folks here. I had a delicious grilled, marinated tuna filet with ginger, garlic, and lemon grass and served in a light coconut milk. The sea scallops in cream sauce are a favorite. Everything’s good here, and it’s a good place to linger, enjoy the Swedish lingonberry (a kind of cranberry) ice cream, and watch the goings-on on busy Bach Dang.

THE MERMAID (NHU Y) RESTAURANT
Address: 02 Tran Phu St, Hoi An
Tel: 0510/861-527
Website: www.hoianhospitality.com
This quiet spot in the heart of downtown is an ivy-draped, unassuming storefront that serves some of the best authentic Vietnamese food in town (for next to nothing). If you like what you eat, stick around and take a cooking class in the large adjoining kitchen that’s open to the street: Here’s a unique chance to bring some of Vietnam home to your kitchen. I had a scrumptious tuna filet cooked in a banana leaf with turmeric. The spring rolls are light and fresh, with a whole jumbo shrimp in each, and they serve the most unique dish, called white eggplant: It’s eggplant covered in spring onion, garlic, and chili, and then pressed, sliced, and served in a light oil. Everything is good. The staff members also teach the class and are very friendly and can explain it all.

MANGO ROOMS
Address: 111 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Hoi An
Tel: 0510-910-839
You found it! The hippest little restaurant between Ho Chi Minh and Hanoi. Owner and chef Duc spent his formative years in Texas before earning his stripes in hotels and fine-dining establishments. He brings to Hoi An his own blend of cuisines, putting words like salsa and Vietnamese nuoc mam (fish sauce) in jarring juxtaposition, and serving up cool combinations of California cuisine, down-home barbecue, and Pacific Rim — all stylishly presented in a fashion that would make the grade among the finest bistros of New York or San Francisco (he calls it “Vietnamese with a twist served California-style”). Duc runs the show from an open central kitchen and greets guests with a flamboyant, “Oh man, we’re rockin’ tonight!” as he steps out from behind the grill to see if he can help you find a seat and tempt you with some new idea. Try the likes of La Tropicana, a chicken breast with lemon grass and garlic, the “Asian Sins” of rice noodles pan-fried with vegetables, garlic, onion, and sweet basil, or seared tuna in rice paper. There are fresh-fish specials daily. The drink list is long, and you can’t stump the Italian barman. Try the delicious sticky rice with mango for dessert.

HOI AN CARGO CLUB & PATISSERIE
Address: 107-109 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Hoi An
Tel: 0510-910-489
Website: www.hoianhospitality.com
Ms. Vy expands her Hoi An empire with a unique, open-air patisserie and French cafe. This stylish storefront serves light meals in a lounge bar on the first floor and, upstairs, is a refined restaurant specializing in contemporary Vietnamese cuisine. There are good seafood dishes like the crab in five spices or jumbo shrimp with tamarind sauce. Sandwiches, soups, and salads are good and served with fine fresh bread that’s baked on-site. Upstairs seating is on a cool balcony overlooking the river or a chic indoor space, and the first floor offers casual bar or lounge seating. Curries and good veggie dishes round out a good, affordable menu. They’ve also got the best pastries in southern Vietnam. Cargo Club is a good place to reconnoiter if traveling in a group or to meet other travelers.

SONG HOAI, THE SAIGON TIMES CLUB
Address: 119-121 Nguyen Thai Hoc (riverside), Hoi An
Tel: 0510-910-369
Set in the most picturesque period building in town, on a corner overlooking riverside Bach Dang, this Saigon-managed restaurant is as much about atmosphere as it is about dining. Rivaled only by Brother’s, the two open floors here reflect true old Hoi An elegance. The second floor has great views of the river and is dramatic, with a high, exposed tile ceiling and languid ceiling fans. I had the Vietnamese-style ravioli, the local white rose specialty, and enjoyed fresh pan-fried shrimp. They serve regional dishes like Hanoi cha ca and mi quang wide noodles. Presentation is arguably the classiest in town, with fine china, stemware, and lacquered dishes on linen, and the service is professional if a bit hovering. A good choice for a romantic evening of fine dining, Hoi An-style.

TAM-TAM CAFÉ
Address: 110 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An
Tel: 0510/862-212
Tam-Tam is the place to be in Hoi An. The brainchild of three French expats, it is historic and laid-back, serving good, familiar food. The decor is authentic local-style, with hanging bamboo lamps, a high wooden ceiling, and fantastic wooden figurines. The dinner menu, served in a separate restaurant room with checkered tablecloths, is simple – featuring generous portions of homemade pastas, steaks, and salads – but the food is delicious. The dessert menu includes flambéed crepes, sorbet, and hot chocolate. There are two bar rooms: The bigger one to the left of the entry has a pool table, a book-swap shelf, comfortable lounge chairs, and sofas, and is the place to hang out in Hoi An. The extensive drink menu features all kinds of bang-for-the-buck rum specials, and there’s even a small counter on the balcony where you can sip a cocktail and watch life go by on the street below. Even if just for a coffee, don’t miss this place.

BROTHER’S CAFÉ
Address: 27 Pham Boi Chau St, Hoi An
Tel: 0510/914-150
Serving similar fine Vietnamese fare as its sister restaurant in Hanoi (but here it’s a la carte, not buffet), Brother’s Café is the town’s top choice for cuisine and atmosphere. A bland street-side facade gives way to the lush, garden sanctuary formed by this grand U-shape colonial by the river. Indoor seating is upscale Indochina of a bygone era, and the courtyard is dotted with canvas umbrellas to while away a balmy afternoon or enjoy a candlelit evening riverside. The fare is gourmet Vietnamese at its finest, with great specials; be sure to ask for a recommendation. It’s a good place to try local items like the white rose, a light Vietnamese ravioli, or cao lao noodles. Set menus are great here and change daily. With a group, this is a great spot to order up family-style and sample it all. They also feature a cooking school (just ask the staff). Everything’s good, the atmosphere is great, and the staff couldn’t be friendlier.

CAFÉ DES AMIS
Address: 52 Bach Dang, Hoi An
Tel: 0510/861-616
What’s on the menu? There isn’t one. It’s your choice of a set menu, either seafood or vegetarian, and the details are, well, a surprise. And the surprise is always good; one of the best meals in Vietnam, if you ask me. But don’t ask me. Read the straight dope from the many guests who come and sign their endorsements in Mr. Kim’s lengthy guest book (you’ll be asked to sign, too, of course). I enjoyed a leisurely meal starting with a savory clear soup, fried won tons with shrimp, broiled fish, stuffed calamari, and scallops on the half shell. Sit back and surrender yourself to the surprises of the effusive Mr. Kim and his attentive staff. He is careful to explain the intricacies of each dish and even demonstrates how to eat some of the more unique entrees. The food is great, and a meal here makes for a memorable evening.

CAFETERIA 22
Address: 22 Nguyen Hue St, Hoi An
Tel: 0510-861-603
You’re greeted by the kind proprietor herself, Miss Ly, always dressed to the nines and welcoming. The menu is limited, but that means everything is always available and fresh in this little hole-in-the wall cafe in the heart of the old town. Cafeteria 22 is the best place in Hoi An to try the town’s famous fried won tons, a rice pastry stuffed with meat, shrimp, and onion and topped with Ly’s special sauce, onion, and tomato – messy and delicious. Ly has been at it for over 10 years now and has just the right formula. There’s nothing fancy here, and that is the appeal for folks who tire easily of trumped-up atmosphere and overpriced, altered versions of local fare. Come meet Ly and try the real deal.

THE WHITE LANTERN
Address: 810 Nhi Trung St, Hoi An
Tel: 0510/863-023
This is a very popular tour group stop, so try to get there early (or late); if you see buses parked out front, head for the hills. Everyone’s here for good reason, though: delicious, affordable Vietnamese cuisine and a mellow atmosphere. Strumming guitarists roam the tables playing old Beatles melodies and some nice local numbers, and the large open area on the first floor, with long tables for groups, and the second-floor balcony space are dimly lit and romantic. Owned by the same folks that run Nhu Y, above, this is a slightly upscale version. Set menus are a great bet; I had a fine meal of a delicate won-ton soup, spring rolls, and chicken in a light curry. It’s a good find just north of the town center.

Bale Well
Address: 45-51 Tran Hung Dao St, Hoi An
Tel: 0510/864-443
Bale Well is the epitome of local dining, but they’re quite used to foreign visitors and make you feel right at home. This is your chance to experience squat stools and dining at street-side, but with a good standard of cleanliness ensured. The meal is simple: a set menu ofnem nuong, the kind of spring rolls that you make yourself, rolling chicken, beef, or pork with fresh greens and condiments into sheets of rice paper. A set for one costs just 35,000 VND ($2.35/£1.30). You might also want to try the good pork satay, savory banh xeo(pancakes), or good fried spring rolls. The restaurant is in a little alley just off of Tran Hung Dao Street. The sign is more or less hidden, as if to say “If you know where you’re going, you’re here.”

Goda
Address: 308 Cua Dai St, Hoi An
Tel: 051-923-644
A crossroads of Vietnam and the West, this locally owned cafe offers a good host of specials: papaya salad, hot pots, local stews, and stir-fries, as well as burgers, pasta, and pizza. But because it’s Vietnamese-owned and -run, it’s best to stick with local dishes (though locals who come here all eat the very average pizza). The place is a contemporary, chic, two-story cafe with a big winding staircase and good jazz music piped in. Located on Cua Dai Street about halfway between the town and beach, it’s a good stop on the way back from the beach for coffee. Bad English writing on the menu about the philosophy of the place, with far too many adjectives, begs for editing. Offer to do it and they’ll buy

Nan Long
Address: 103 Cua Dai St, Hoi An
Tel: 0510/923-723
The owners of Brother’s Café stake out a claim on Cua Dai road. This is the place to come for a secluded, riverside view. A hostess greets you out front, and leads you through the front garden, past wild lilies, palm trees, and orchids floating in water vessels. The indoor seating is nicer than Brother’s, with dark wooden chairs with double happiness symbols carved into the back, and subdued lighting throughout. However, it’s still better to stake out a table on the outdoor patio, next to the river. Food and staff are as fabulous and friendly as at Brother’s.

Wan Lu
Address: 27 Tran Phu, Hoi An
Tel: 0510/861-212
Pull up a chair and try the special, cao lau, a thick but tender white noodle in light soy with fresh vegetables, garnish, and croutons. This is where the locals eat it, and if it’s not your cup of tea, then you’re out only 6,000 VND (40¢/£0.20). It’s an open-air place, and the atmosphere is a little rough, but they serve a nice selection of local favorites, too, all for next to nothing. The portions are big and everything’s authentic, right down to the kindness in this little mom-and-pop. There are no touts here — it’s the food that brings ‘em in.

LY CAFETERIA 22
22 Nguyen Hue St., Hoian
Tel: 861603
A true Hoian institution. Good local food at reasonable price. Close very late.

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